Making homemade pasta is more fun done with company. This week I had a cooking student named Barbara to cook with, so making the pasta was extra fun. We took breaks to dance, and she sang. Halfway through the rolling process, Barbara decided we were making “crazy lady pasta”…that was before I told her about cutting the strips in half so they wouldn’t wrap around her arms like Ace bandages. The pasta turned out wonderfully.
Roasted Winter Squash Lasagne
Homemade pasta transforms lasagne. It is delicate and light, and particularly well suited for this filling of roasted winter squash flavored with sage. If you can buy fresh pasta sheets, so much the better, but making your own pasta for this lasagne is well worth the effort.
Make the pasta dough using 2 cups all-purpose flour and 3 large, or 4 medium size eggs. Be sure the eggs are at room temperature before mixing the dough (see the “Pasta Night” blog entry for pasta making directions). You may need extra flour or a few sprinkles of water to make the dough come together for kneading. Roll out the lasagne noodles, boil 30 seconds in salted water, cool in ice water, and spread out on clean dishtowels.
Make the filling: Roast a 3-lb winter squash in a 400 degree F oven 45 minutes to one hour, until soft. Roast a head of garlic, wrapped in foil, about 30 minutes. Using a food processor or potato masher, make a puree with the cooked squash, roasted garlic, 2 cups ricotta cheese, 1/4 cup Pecorino Romano, and 6 to 8 finely chopped fresh sage leaves. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.
Make a béchamel sauce: Melt 1 1/2 Tbs butter in a saucepan. Add 4 or 5 fresh sage leaves, 1/4 tsp nutmeg or 1/4 tsp crushed fennel seeds and cook over low heat 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the sage leaves. Whisk in 1 Tbs all-purpose flour. Cook 2 minutes, stirring. Gradually add 1 1/2 cups warm whole milk, whisking until smooth. Cook until thickened, about 15 minutes. Season with salt.
Assemble the lasagne: Spread 1/2 cup of the béchamel over the bottom of a 9 x 13-inch baking dish. Cover the sauce with a layer of noodles. Spread 1/4 of the squash filling over the noodles. Cover with noodles. Repeat the layers for a total of 4 squash layers and 5 pasta layers. Spread the remaining béchamel over the top. Sprinkle with 1/4-cup dry breadcrumbs mixed with 1/4 cup Pecorino and 2 tsp chopped fresh thyme leaves.
Bake the lasagne: cover the pan with foil and bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 30 to 40 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until the topping is browned, about 10 minutes.
We ate this lasagne with focaccia and bowls of Romesco sauce and salsa verde (recipes below).
Romesco is a wonderful Spanish concoction of garlic, toasted almonds, tomato, and a mildly spicy pepper. I use re-hydrated ancho chile or my own roasted Anaheim chiles with roasted red bell peppers to make an approximation of the flavor.
Use a food processor or mortar and pestle to make a smooth puree. My Romesco was made with 2 large roasted red peppers, 2 roasted Anaheim chiles, 1 small roasted red onion, 1 head roasted garlic, 1 raw garlic clove, 1/2 tsp kosher salt, 1/4 cup toasted almonds, 2 or 3 tsp red wine vinegar, and 3 Tbs extra virgin olive oil.
Green Herb Sauce Italian-style herb sauce is endlessly variable and useful for perking up other foods. A little dab makes a great topping for roasted or grilled meats, fish or vegetables…a spread for bruschetta … stirred into soups, pasta, or beans, or rice dishes.
I like to use a mixture of whatever herbs are in my garden, so this time it was about a cup of parsley leaves, 1/2 cup sorrel leaves, and some chives and arugula. The herbs are chopped very fine with a sharp knife or food processor and mixed with a garlic clove mashed to a paste with 1/4 tsp kosher salt, 1 tsp lemon zest, 2 Tbs chopped walnuts (toasted), freshly ground black pepper, and 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil. Stir in 2 tsp fresh lemon juice or wine vinegar and salt to taste. One or two Tbs chopped capers are a delicious addition.
Another version: Mix one finely chopped shallot or garlic clove with 2 tsp fresh lemon juice or wine vinegar. Let it sit while your chop 1 cup flat-leaf parsley and 1 Tbs fresh thyme leaves very fine. Add 1 Tbs chopped capers. Mix the herbs and capers with the garlic or shallot and stir in 5 or 6 Tbs extra virgin olive oil. Season to taste with freshly ground black pepper and salt.
Note: In a taste test, the hand-chopped salsa verde won.
Lagane e Ceci
Pasta with Chick Peas
We had enough pasta sheets left over from the lasagne to make noodles. We cut the wide sheets into short strips about 1/4 inch wide, dusted them with semolina, and dried them on pizza pans. The next day we made Lagane e Ceci, a Southern Italian peasant dish.
You can use canned chickpeas, but I like the flavor of freshly cooked chickpeas better.
Soak 1 1/2 cups chickpeas for 12 hours (or do a short soak by pouring boiling water over the chick peas and letting them sit for 2 hours). Drain the chickpeas, put them in a pot with a sprig of rosemary, 2 garlic cloves, 2 bay leaves and a small hot chile with water to cover by one inch, and bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, loosely covered, for 1 to 1/2 hours, or until the chickpeas are tender. Add 2 tsp salt to the pot.
When the chickpeas are done, heat 3 Tbs extra virgin olive oil with 1 1/2 Tbs finely chopped garlic, 2 Tbs finely chopped fresh rosemary, and 1/2 tsp red chile flakes over low heat until the garlic begins to sizzle. Stir 30 seconds or so. Add 1 cup diced or crushed canned tomatoes and their juice and stir 1 minute. Add 2 1/2 cups cooked chick peas and about 1 1/2 cups chick pea cooking liquid; simmer 5 to 10 minutes.
While the chickpeas simmer, boil the pasta in well-salted water. Traditionally, this dish calls for flat pasta. Egg noodles, fettuccine, farfalle, or fresh ribbon pasta would work fine. I used about 5 oz dried noodles. Add the cooked noodles to the chickpeas. Eat as a thick soup or add more broth, if you prefer.
Serve the pasta with chopped flat-leaf parsley or salsa verde. I stirred a few spoonfuls of Romesco sauce into the dish, and put a bowl of the sauce on the table for people to add at the table. Brilliant!