Archive | June 2012

Bean Salads, Synergy, and Serendipity

Mung Bean Salad

Sometimes cooking involves serendipity. First came the mung beans, then recipes in Silk Road Cooking, and finally advice from an Italian Grandmother. “You welcome whatever arrives, and then you listen closely and nourish well.” This is one of the lessons Jessica Theroux absorbed while researching her wonderful book, Cooking with Italian Grandmothers. I believe this approach to life applies to the ingredients that arrive in my kitchen as well as the people that gather around my table.

I decided to take this advice when a jar of mung beans came into my life. My daughter, Naomi, brought me various jars of beans to help use up, and the mung beans called out to me. I like to make bean salads for summer lunches: lentils, red beans, white beans, black beans, kidney beans…but I never used mung beans. The question was, what flavors do mung beans like? I found a “Samarkand Mung Bean Salad” in the Silk Road Cooking book, so I was off to a good start.

Then comes the synergy — the sum being greater than it’s parts. Beans have a great ability to soak up flavors from whatever you mix with them. The ingredients for a good bean salad include contrasting flavors and textures (crunchy, smooth, acidic, sweet): perfectly cooked beans (tender but not mushy), lots of chopped fresh vegetables, aromatic fresh herbs, and a dressing of sprightly citrus juices and flavorful oil.

Carrot and Mung Bean Salad

First, I cooked a cup of mung beans in 4 cups water with a tsp salt and a bay leaf. They cook quickly, like lentils. Simmer them gently. After 20 minutes, begin checking to see if they’re done. They should be tender, but not exploded. Remove from the heat and drain the beans in a sieve. Put the drained beans in a large bowl.

While the beans cook: soak a thinly sliced, small red onion in cold water. After 1/2 hour, drain and mix into the beans.

Heat an iron skillet over medium heat and dry roast 4 tsp cumin seed. Stir constantly 45 to 60 seconds, or until the cumin is fragrant. Add to the bowl of beans. Sprinkle with 1 tsp curry powder and stir gently to combine.

Mash 2 garlic cloves with a pinch of coarse salt in a mortar to make a paste. Add 3 Tbs fresh lemon or lime juice to the garlic paste. Add 1 Tbs minced fresh ginger and 1 finely chopped jalapeno. Stir and let sit 10 minutes.

Finely chop about 1/2-cup fresh herbs. I used parsley, cilantro, chives, and thyme. Coarsely chop about 2 cups spicy greens. I used curly endive and arugula. Add the herbs to the beans.

The Samarkand version calls for fresh diced tomatoes, but I didn’t have any. The salad needed some color, so I substituted about 1 1/2-cups shredded carrots and 1/2 cup chopped celery for crunch. Mix the tomato or carrots into the salad.

Whisk 3 or 4 Tbs extra virgin olive oil or other flavorful nut oil with the garlic -lemon mixture. Pour over the salad and toss gently. Adjust the seasoning (I added more lime juice) and mix in the chopped greens. Or, serve the salad on top of the greens. Sprinkle the salad with toasted sunflower or sesame seeds.

I think a couple cups fresh mung beans sprouts would be a fabulous addition. Then it could be called Double Mung Bean Salad. Our left over mung bean salad was mixed with some pilaf of wild rice and red Bhutanese rice to make yet another salad.

Version Two

Mung beans are really good, and that they cook so quickly makes them extra attractive. I made this salad again, using 1/2 cup green lentils and 1/2-cup mung beans. I cooked them together (with 1/2 tsp salt, thyme, bay leaf, and a hot chile) because they both take about 20 to 25 minutes to cook. I mixed them with 1 Tbs toasted cumin seed, the juice of 1 lemon (about 3 Tbs), 1 tsp lemon zest, 1/2 cup chopped cilantro, 1/4 cup chopped mint, 1/2 cup chopped sweet onion, 5 chopped sun-dried tomatoes, and 1 cup finely sliced purple cabbage. I added a cup of freshly cooked chickpeas, some minced garlic, and a few Tbs extra virgin olive oil. I love the fresh mint and the bright purple cabbage.

 Black Bean Salad with Mango

Bean Salad

Black beans, golden mange, red pepper, and bright green cilantro–a beautiful color and flavor combination. Increase the chiles to make it a salsa. Canned beans work fine in this salad, just be sure to drain and rinse them well.

Mix 2 cups cooked black beans (or 1 can) with 1 1/2 cups diced ripe, firm mango, 2/3-cup diced red onion, 1 cup diced red bell pepper, 1 or 2 finely chopped jalapenos, 2 tsp toasted cumin seed, and 1/2 cup chopped cilantro or Thai basil.

Make a dressing: Mash 2 garlic cloves with 1/4 tsp coarse salt to make a paste. Add 3 Tbs fresh lime juice and 1 tsp lime zest. Stir in 1 or 2 tsp minced chipotle chile en adobo. Stir in 2 Tbs extra virgin olive oil and 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper.

Toss the salad with the dressing. Let sit 5 to 10 minutes to absorb the flavors. Adjust the seasoning and toss again.

Secret ingredient: Instead of chipotle chile, mix a bit of Indian pickle into the dressing to create a wonderful mysterious flavor.

 White Bean Salad with Cherry Tomatoes

I like big, fat beans for this salad–Cannellini, Great Northern, or freshly shelled beans–mixed with bright red, ripe tomatoes or red bell pepper, and spicy greens. Cook the beans with a big sprig of fresh rosemary and a small dried chile.

Combine about 3 cups cooked beans with 1 1/2-cups halved cherry tomatoes (or 1/2-cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes), 3/4-cup chopped red onion (soaked in cold water for 1/2 hour), 2 Tbs drained capers, 1/2-cup roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley, and 2 Tbs chopped fresh mint leaves.

Make a dressing: Mash 1 or 2 garlic cloves with a pinch of coarse salt in a mortar to make a paste. Add 1/4-cup fresh lemon juice and 1 tsp lemon zest. Stir in 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper, 1 tsp minced fresh rosemary, and 4 Tbs extra virgin olive oil.

Toss the dressing with the salad. Let sit 5 to10 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Add more lemon juice or wine vinegar to taste. Gently stir in 2 or 3 cups coarsely chopped arugula or other spicy greens.

Lentil Salad with Cumin-Mint Vinaigrette

 All lentils are not created equal; it’s important to use small green French lentils for this salad. French lentils cook quickly and hold their shape well. Small brown Spanish lentils work well, too.

Start with 1 cup French lentils. Pick through them looking for stones or grit; wash and drain. Put the lentils in a saucepan with 3 cups water, 2 lightly smashed garlic cloves, 1 small hot chile, 3 or 4 sprigs fresh thyme, 1 bay leaf, and 1/2 tsp kosher salt. Bring to a boil over medium heat, and then reduce the heat to low. Cook the lentils, partially covered, at a bare simmer until they are tender–about 15 minutes. Drain, and discard the garlic, chile, and herbs.

While the lentils cook, cut 2 or 3 carrots into 1/4-inch dice. Steam, or blanch in salted boiling water for 1 minute. Drain and cool. Finely chop a sweet onion to make about 1/2 cup. Cut 2 or 3 sun-dried tomatoes into thin strips. Roughly chop 1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves and 1/2-cup cilantro.

Make the vinaigrette: With a mortar and pestle, mash 1 garlic clove with 1/4 tsp kosher salt to make a paste. Transfer to a small bowl and add 2 Tbs fresh lemon juice, 1 tsp lemon zest, and 1 Tbs sherry or balsamic vinegar. Stir and set aside 5 minutes. Dry-roast 1/2 tsp cumin seed and 1/2 tsp coriander seed on a small skillet over medium heat. Grind the spices to a fine powder and add to the garlic mixture. Whisk in 1/4 tsp black pepper, 2 Tbs finely chopped mint (or 1 tsp dried mint), and 4 Tbs extra virgin olive oil.

Assemble the salad: In a large bowl, toss the lentils with the chopped vegetables and herbs. Pour the dressing over the salad and mix gently to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Variations and additions: diced red bell pepper (raw or roasted) instead of carrots, chopped fresh tomatoes instead of dried, toasted walnuts or sunflower seeds, dried cranberries or currants. Dress it up, or dress it down–just sweet onion, sherry vinegar, chopped fresh thyme, and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.


Spring Salads

Yum, Salad!

My friend Marlis lives in a homemade house tucked into the woods, with an opening to the sun just large enough to grow a garden. Her garden is terraced into the hillside below the house–intensively planted beds overflowing with herbs, flowers, and vegetables. I followed her through the garden, picking leaves, sampling peas, uncovering a thriving carrot patch and rows of ruby-red beets beneath the vines. Marlis gathered ingredients for her favorite spring salad, which she made for our lunch. We ate on her tiny porch at a table overlooking the garden, talking about what a great science experiment having a garden is…. how fun to watch plants grow, to be close among them observing their likes and dislikes, and what a gift it is to spend time in their company. If you get something to eat in the bargain, that’s great!

Marlis’s Spring Salad with Orange-Ginger Vinaigrette

Fill a salad bowl with leaves: lettuce leaves of different shapes and colors, small spinach or chard leaves, arugula, endive…snippets of herbs, tips of pea vines…Grate one small carrot, one gorgeous red beet, and a knob of fresh ginger over the top.

Make the vinaigrette: Use a mortar and pestle to mash 1 garlic clove and a pinch of kosher salt to a paste. Put the garlic paste in a bowl with 5 Tbs fresh orange juice and1 Tbs fresh lime juice; let it sit 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in 1 tsp chipotle chile in adobo, 1 tsp grated ginger, 1/2 tsp orange zest, 1 tsp white wine or cider vinegar, and 4 to 5 Tbs extra virgin olive oil. Add salt and black pepper to taste.

Pour the marinade over the salad. Toss gently. Sprinkle the top with toasted sunflower and pumpkin seeds.

This vinaigrette would be a perfect dressing for a variety of steamed vegetables: beets, carrots, cauliflower, asparagus, snow peas, zucchini…Serve them on top of a bed of spicy salad greens, perhaps tossed with buckwheat or rice noodles.

Snap Pea and Carrot Salad with Scallions

Spring vegetables are sweet and tender enough to eat raw, but cooking them just a little allows them to meld with the flavors of a dressing all the better.

Prepare the vegetables: Cut 3 or 4 young carrots into thin matchsticks about 3 inches long. Trim and cut 1/2 lb snap peas in half diagonally. Blanch the carrots and snap peas 1 minute in salted boiling water. Scoop them out and rinse briefly with cold water to cool.  Drain in a colander or salad spinner.

Thinly slice the white and tender green portion of 4 or 5 scallions. Finely chop a fresh jalapeno or serrano pepper. Coarsely chop 1/2 cup flat leaf parsley, 1/2 cup cilantro, 1/4 cup chives, and 1/4 cup mint leaves.

Make the vinaigrette: Use a mortar and pestle to mash 1 garlic clove and a pinch of kosher salt to a smooth paste. Stir the paste together with 2 Tbs fresh lemon or lime juice and 1 Tbs rice or white wine vinegar. Add 1/2 tsp lemon or lime zest, 1 tsp minced fresh ginger, a pinch cayenne (or 6-8 toasted and ground Szechuan peppercorns). Let the mixture sit 5 to 10 minutes, then whisk in 3 Tbs extra virgin olive oil and 1 Tbs toasted sesame oil.

Combine the carrots, peas, scallions, and jalapeno in a salad bowl. Toss with half the dressing and set aside 15 minutes to let the vegetables absorb the flavors.

Just before serving, toss the vegetables with the fresh herbs and season with salt. Drizzle on the reserved vinaigrette, toss, and taste for seasoning. Add more salt, lime juice, or vinegar to taste.

Zucchini Salad with Red Onion and Arugula

Zucchini Blossom

Use the youngest, freshest zucchini you can find. Slice 4 or 5 small zucchini (about 3/4 to 1 pound) diagonally into very thin (1/16-inch thick) ovals. Sprinkle the squash with kosher salt and place in a colander. Slice a small red onion into very thin rounds. Separate the rings and soak them in cold water.

Prepare the herbs: Chop or tear young arugula leaves to make about 3 cups. Roughly chop a handful of sorrel leaves, 1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves, 1/4 cup cilantro leaves, 1/4 cup chives, and 1/4 cup mint leaves. Mix the herbs together with 1 Tbs capers (rinsed and chopped if large).

Make vinaigrette: Mash a garlic clove with a pinch of kosher salt to make a smooth paste. Put the paste into a bowl with 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice and 1/2 tsp lemon zest. Let it sit 5 to 10 minutes, then whisk in 5 Tbs extra virgin olive oil and 1/2 tsp curry powder.

Assemble the salad: Taste the zucchini; it should taste seasoned, but not too salty. Drain the onions and pat dry with a towel. Toss the vegetables with 1/2 the vinaigrette. Toss them again with the herbs and the remaining dressing. Taste the salad and adjust the seasoning; add salt, pepper, lemon juice, or curry powder if needed. Serve the salad on a large platter, topped with chickpeas and a sprinkling of cayenne or Aleppo pepper.

Slices of avocado would be most welcome.

More Yummy Salad!

Spring Vegetable Explosion

It’s an explosion! Asparagus spears rocket out of the ground…mountains of cauliflower erupt…a forest of broccoli unfurls…and garlic scapes twirl into the sky. After waiting and waiting, it seems as if I turn my back there’s another wheelbarrow load of vegetables bursting out of the garden. What to do with all these vegetables? Roll the wheelbarrow into the kitchen and invite your friends over for a party. Vegetables make great starters…or a whole meal.

Broccoli “Strascinato”


Strascinato means “dragged” in Italian. In this case, dragged around the pan with olive oil, garlic, and hot red pepper. Nothing better could happen to a head of broccoli.

Cut a large head of broccoli into florets of equal size. Cut large ones in half, and cut the stems into pieces, too. Boil the broccoli in a large pot of salted water (2 Tbs salt for 4 qts. water) for 3 to 5 minutes, until tender-crisp. Drain and cool.

Warm 4 Tbs extra virgin olive oil over low heat in a 12-inch skillet or sauté pan with a generous Tbs minced garlic and 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes (or a small minced hot pepper). Cook the garlic, stirring occasionally, until softened. The garlic should not color.

Add the cooked broccoli to the pan, stirring well to coat the florets with the garlic oil. Season with salt to taste.

Cauliflower with Black Olives and Mint

Break or cut a large head of cauliflower into floret. Cut the large ones in half to make even-sized pieces. Boil in well-salted water (3 Tbs kosher or sea salt for 4 qts. water) for about 3 minutes, until the cauliflower is tender-crisp. The cauliflower can be steamed, if you prefer, but the salted water seasons it as it cooks. Drain and cool.

Put the cooked cauliflower in a large bowl and toss gently with 4 Tbs extra virgin olive oil and 2 Tbs white wine vinegar. Add 2 Tbs finely chopped fresh mint leaves, 2 tsp capers, and a handful chopped black olives (oil-cured or brined). Season with salt, freshly ground black pepper, and more vinegar to taste.

Gerardo’s Cauliflower with Egg and Cheese

Gerardo made this dish for us at Tenuta San’Arcangelo, broiled in individual custard bowls and deliciously browned on top. It can be cooked in a hot skillet just as well, as Arthur Schwartz describes in his cookbook, The Southern Italian Table.

Break a head of cauliflower into florets, cutting the larger ones to make even-sized pieces. Boil the cauliflower in well-salted water until tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Drain in a colander.

Mix together 3 beaten eggs with 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, 1/4 tsp black pepper, and a pinch of cayenne. Stir the cooked Cauliflower into the egg mixture, tossing gently to coat well.

Transfer the mixture to a buttered gratin dish or individual custard dishes. Place under a pre-heated broiler 6 to 8 minutes, until the egg is set and the top is browned.

Alternatively, heat 2 Tbs extra virgin olive oil over medium heat in a large skillet. When the oil shimmers, stir the cauliflower and egg mixture well and transfer it to the hot pan. Drizzle the remaining egg over the cauliflower. When the egg is set, flip the cauliflower over to brown the other side. Continue to turn the florets to lightly brown all sides. Remove from the pan and serve hot or at room temperature. A squeeze of fresh lemon is nice.

Garlic Scape Pesto

Garlic Scape Pesto

Garlic scapes are the wild-looking seed heads that a garlic plant sends out toward the sky, twisting and twirling on the way. Snapping them off results in larger garlic bulbs for harvest as well as a potent ingredient for cooking. I chop them up and use them in place of garlic cloves in a sauté or stir-fry.

To make a brilliant green garlicky pesto, chop a bunch of garlic scapes into 1-inch pieces  (to make about 1 cup) and toss them into boiling water for about 1 minute. Drain. Put them in a food processor with a handful of flat-leaf parsley leaves, a handful of sorrel, a small handful arugula, and 1/3 cup Parmesan. Puree and add 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil and salt to taste.

Serve smeared on bread, tossed with pasta, or added to other dishes like Cauliflower with Eggs.

Garlic Scape Sauté with Mushrooms

Garlic Scapes

Heat 2 Tbs extra virgin olive oil in a large skillet. When the oil is hot enough to shimmer, add about 8 oz chopped mushrooms, 1 medium-sized chopped sweet onion, and about 1/2 cup chopped garlic scapes. Sprinkle with salt, and sauté until the vegetables are tender and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Add 1 large roasted red pepper, diced. Stir and cook until the pepper is warmed, about 1 minute. Taste for seasoning, and add a splash of balsamic vinegar.

I served this as a topping for fish; it would be equally good with stir-fried tofu.

Our Favorite Asparagus


We love asparagus, and our favorite way to cook it is stovetop grilling. Grilling (or roasting in a hot oven) concentrates the asparagus flavor and results in spears that are caramelized outside, tender inside, and delicious.

Heat a large iron skillet or griddle over medium heat. Place clean, dry asparagus in a salad bowl and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Roll the spears around so they are well coated with oil. Sprinkle lightly with coarse salt. Place the asparagus on the hot griddle in a single layer. Leave them for several minutes. When one side is browned and sizzling, turn them over. Roll the spears around occasionally until they are browned all over and tender inside, about 10 minutes. Medium-thick asparagus cooks best this way.

Peas, Glorious Peas

I grow Sugar Snap peas these days, and love to eat them right off the vine. If they get cooked at all, it’s very briefly–30 to 60 seconds in salted boiling water, or steamed 1 or 2 minutes. The brief cooking softens them just enough to let them absorb flavors from a vinaigrette better.

*Most simple: 2 tsp soy sauce, 2 tsp rice vinegar, and 1 Tbs toasted sesame oil

*Poki: In a small saucepan, warm 3 Tbs peanut or grapeseed oil and 3 Tbs toasted sesame oil with 2 Tbs finely chopped ginger, 1 Tbs finely chopped garlic, and 1 finely chopped hot red pepper (fresh or dried). Heat until small bubbles rise around the aromatics. Remove from the heat and set aside for 1 hour. Strain the oil (or not) and whisk in 3 Tbs soy sauce, 3 Tbs rice vinegar, and 1 Tbs fresh lime juice, and 1/2 tsp sugar.

*Citrus-Nut Oil: Whisk together 4 Tbs fresh orange juice, 1 Tbs fresh lemon juice, 2 Tsp orange zest, 1 1/2 tsp balsamic vinegar, 1 garlic clove mashed with 1/4 tsp kosher salt, 1/4 tsp crushed fennel seed, and 6 Tbs walnut oil. Add salt and black pepper to taste.

Dress the freshly cooked peas with the vinaigrette of choice. Sprinkle with finely chopped fresh mint or cilantro. Serve the peas straight up, or on a bed of Asian noodles tossed with pea shoots.