Eating Green

“Green” has become a buzzword of living these days, but I take eating green literally. It’s all about the color. I’m not sure anyone truly knows about green if they haven’t experienced spring in the mountains of North Carolina. Every day is an explosion of green. Every leaf that unfolds, every seedling that emerges unfurls it’s own gorgeous shade of green. I want to eat them all.

My friend Vicki once introduced me as the person who could grow everything better than she could excepting chickweed. That’s not really true, but I am a person who is always on the lookout for, and who recognizes superior chickweed. Vicki has lush, extravagantly green chickweed growing on the banks of her branch–the best kind for eating.

Chickweed is a wild plant that is a major ingredient in my daughter Naomi’s spring tonic pesto. Making this pesto involves foraging in the garden for early spring volunteers and exploring in the woods for wild edible greens… a wonderful way to spend a misty spring day. While harvesting green leaves we discovered patches of trillium, trout lily, bellwort, tightly wound ferns, and legions of violets.

The early spring garden is also full of surprising abundance. All those wonderful Italian chicories and Japanese mustards are making new leaves, as are the chard and kale plants that survived the winter. Wild arugula (sylvetta), chives, and garlic chives spring to life…mint, sorrel, and wild fennel are at their tender best. Garden-grown chickweed and the tips of my Austrian winter pea cover crop are succulent and sweet. It’s a green feast.

Here is a collection of recipes for eating green. Feel free to mix and match and substitute one green for another. Like the Mexican cook said when asked whether her soup should be made with chard or spinach, “Which one do you have?”

Wild Spring Tonic Pesto

This is food as medicine at it’s best. You can feel the energy and exuberance of the plant world in this deep green pesto. If it’s possible to capture the essence of spring, this is it.

Naomi and I gathered chickweed, cleavers, nettles, plantain, dandelion, arugula, chives, ramps (wild garlic-leek), violet flowers, sorrel, and watercress. About 3 cups of mixed leaves are pureed in the food processor with 3 crushed garlic cloves, 2 or 3 Tbs fresh lemon juice, a pinch of sea salt, 1 or 2 tsp balsamic vinegar, and 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil. Freeze in small portions to use whenever green energy is needed.

Spring Garden Pesto

This is a tamer pesto made with the earliest tender garden herbs–a handful each chopped young parsley leaves, French sorrel, chives, Chinese garlic chives, mint, and a touch of wild arugula. Mash a few garlic cloves with a pinch of sea salt to make a paste. Use a large mortar and pestle or a food processor to finely chop or pound the herbs to make a rough pesto. Add extra virgin olive oil until the pesto is as you like it.

Watercress -Chickpea Soup

It is important to harvest watercress only from clean, uncontaminated water, like the spring water that bubbles out of the mountain above our house. Watercress has a strong, spicy flavor that mellows with cooking. Arugula, broccoli rabe, or spinach could replace the watercress in this soup. Ramps are wild garlic-leeks that grow in rich mountain woods.

Ingredients: 2 Tbs olive oil, 1 1/2 cups chopped onion or leeks, 2 or 3 thinly sliced garlic cloves, 5 or 6 ramps, 1 finely chopped jalapeno, 1 1/2 Tbs minced ginger, 1/2 tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp ground coriander, 1/8 tsp ground cinnamon, 1 1/2 cups cooked chickpeas (one14-oz can with liquid), 2 cups vegetable or chicken broth (or chickpea cooking liquid), 8 oz well-washed watercress, 4 oz spinach leaves, salt, freshly ground black pepper, yogurt (optional)

Warm the olive oil in a heavy soup pot with the onions or leeks over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, until the onion is very soft. Stir in the garlic, ramps, jalapeno, and ginger; cook 1 or 2 minutes. Add the spices, one cup chickpeas, and broth; season to taste with salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer 5 minutes. Add the chopped watercress (reserve a small amount for a garnish) and spinach leaves and simmer 1 or 2 minutes, until wilted. Cool slightly and puree the soup in a blender until smooth. Add liquid as needed. Season with salt and pepper

Toss the remaining chickpeas with a drizzle of olive oil and 1/2 tsp crushed cumin seed. Shake them around in a hot skillet for a few minutes to toast the seeds, and scrape them onto the surface of the soup. Scatter the reserved watercress on top. Serve with a dollop of yogurt.

Note: The combination of chickpeas and watercress makes an excellent hummus. Puree the 1 1/2 cups cooked chickpeas with 2 garlic cloves, 1 or 2 Tbs fresh lemon juice, a large handful watercress, and 3 or 4 Tbs tahini. Add salt to taste.

Green Fritters

Ingredients: 1 cup cooked rice, 1/2 cup farmer’s cheese or crumbled feta, 1 large egg, 1 tsp lemon zest, 1 bunch chard or other greens (enough to make 1 1/2 cups cooked and squeeze-dried), 1/4 cup chopped scallions or garlic chives, 2 Tbs chopped dill or fennel greens, pinch cayenne, 1/4 tsp salt, freshly ground black pepper, sesame seeds

Steam the greens a few minutes, until tender and wilted. Drain and press out excess liquid. Put all the ingredients except the sesame seeds in a food processor and pulse to combine. Shape the mixture into small patties and coat with sesame seeds. The fritters may be fried in a skillet or baked in the oven at 400 degrees F. for 20 minutes.

Serve with lemon wedges or quick pickled lemon slices.

Green Rice with Rajas

This is a lovely way to eat nettles. Harvest by pinching off the top few leaves of tender young plants in spring. Violet leaves are a nice addition. If you don’t have nettles, use spinach, chard, or beet greens. I like using white rice for this dish to show off the green color. Long grain white Basmati or short grain Arborio rice give different, but equally good, results. Rajas are strips of roasted and peeled poblano chiles.

Ingredients: 1 cup rice, 1 1/2 Tbs olive oil, 2/3 cup chopped onion, 8 to 10 oz nettles or other green leaves (enough to make 1 to 1/2 cups when steamed), `1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley, 1 1/2 cups water, 1/2 tsp salt

Wash the rice and set aside to drain. Wash the nettles or other greens and steam 2 or 3 minutes until wilted and tender. Warm the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat and sauté the onion 2 to 3 minutes. Add the drained rice and cook, stirring constantly, about 5 minutes. Using a blender, puree the greens and parsley with the water and salt. Combine the rice and greens in a saucepan and bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover tightly, and cook the rice about 20 minutes, until all the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender.

Serve topped with strips of roasted and peeled poblano chiles.

Watercress Guacamole

Ingredients: two diced ripe avocados, 1/2 cup finely chopped sweet onion, 1 or 2 finely chopped jalapeno or serrano chiles, 1 cup chopped watercress, juice of 1 lime, salt and black pepper

Combine all the ingredients and season to taste with salt and pepper. Leave chunky or mash smooth, as you like it.

Add an avocado and increase the onion to 1 1/2 cups and the watercress to 2 or 3 cups. Sauté the onion until soft. Stir in the chopped watercress and cook 1 or 2 minutes to wilt. Puree all the ingredients with cold water or broth (or yogurt) in a blender. Sprinkle chopped chives or cilantro on top.

Spring Garden Salads

While I wait for the lettuce to grow, I fill the salad bowl with the first spinach leaves, arugula, baby kale, chickweed, and the leaves of over-wintered chicory. My favorite salad varieties are Chicory “Bionda Folie Larghe” and Chicory “Zuccherina di Trieste”, that I found in the Seeds from Italy catalog and planted last fall. The new spring growth is mild and tender–perfect for eating raw in salads.

Because greens such as spinach, chicory, endive, and kale are stronger flavored and sturdier than lettuce, they are particularly well suited to combining with salad add-ins like slices of avocado, feta or blue cheeses, shavings of aged cheese, crumbled bacon, diced apples or pears, hard-cooked eggs, or toasted nuts. Add a scattering of tender fresh herbs (parsley, chives, mint, chervil…) and a lively citrusy dressing. Try vinaigrette made with fresh orange juice and a splash of balsamic vinegar to complement slightly bitter greens. For even more flavor, serve the salad with a bowl of spring garden pesto or salsa verde on the side. Or, don’t bother making a salad…just put little bowls of “add-ins” and pesto on the table with a platter of beautiful green leaves. Wrap whatever you choose in a leaf and pop it in your mouth. What could be more delicious?

Salsa Verde: Use a large mortar and pestle to mash together a large garlic clove and a pinch of coarse salt. Combine the garlic paste with 2 Tbs red wine vinegar or fresh lemon juice, 2 tsp dijon mustard, and 3 Tbs finely chopped shallot or sweet onion. Set aside while you finely chop about 3/4 cup fresh herbs (parsley, chives, mint, chervil). Mix the herbs with 2 Tbs chopped capers and 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil. Scrape the garlic mixture into the herbs and stir well. Adjust the flavors by adding salt, black pepper, more oil or lemon juice.

Variations: Incorporate anchovies into the garlic paste. Add chopped green olives to the salsa.

Little Plates: Community Mezze Meal

Sharing a meal with friends is always a treat, and cooking the meal together is even better. “Let’s make flatbreads and have a Mezze party,” was my idea for a meal for a gathering of friends. Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid wrote about the Eastern Mediterranean mezze table in one of my favorite cookbooks, Flatbreads and Flavors, “Mezze is a way of eating; as with tapas and antipasti, almost anything that is small and tasty qualifies as a mezze dish, even main dishes if they can be served in small portions.” But the mezze table is not just about the small plates. It could be called the welcome table, as we learned on our travels in Turkey many years ago. Wherever we went, a table was set…a cloth spread, utensils laid out, bowls of food placed in the center, flatbreads stacked for all to take… and all were welcomed–family, travelers, relatives, neighbors.

A mezze table can be very simple. One of our first meals in Turkey was a pile of very thin flatbreads, coarse salt, green onions, and a bowl of yogurt soup. We rolled the green onions in a piece of bread, dipped them in salt, and scooped up some yogurt to eat with each bite. The meal is a good memory… the end-of-winter generosity of this family sharing the first green onions of spring, their fresh homemade bread, and milk from their cows. Simple gifts from the earth made a feast.

The feast can be large or small. Start with a basket of fresh pita or lavash breads, some crumbled cheese or thick yogurt, hummus and olives, and a salad of spicy greens and fresh herbs. Add some grilled or roasted vegetables, kebab or meatballs for a more substantial meal. Keep going with pickled and marinated vegetables, lentils or pilaf, salsa and dips. I call this the add-a salad menu…soon you have a feast.

A mezze meal has no order or rules. Everything can be set out together, and the diners are free to pick and choose. I love it that every bite can be different–do I want a marinated mushroom with my green onion, or perhaps preserved lemon and harissa? Our mezze party guests brought gifts from their kitchens…marinated mushrooms, pickled grapes and onions, eggplant caponata, and cornbread from homegrown Hopi blue corn. We made meatballs and pilaf with wild rice from Minnesota. Our conversations were as eclectic as the dishes…logging and beekeeping, gardening and tree grafting, global warming and drought in Colorado, painting and woodcarving…a mezze table encourages discussion and discovery.

Pita Bread

Ingredients: 2 cups warm water, 1 tsp yeast, 3 cups unbleached all purpose flour, 2 cups hard whole wheat flour, 2 tsp salt, a couple of friends

In a large bowl, dissolve the yeast in the water. Add the white flour, stirring around in one direction for about 1 minute. Cover with plastic bag or tight lid and let ferment at room temperature 4 to 6 hours. Add the salt and 1 cup whole wheat flour to the sponge, stirring to incorporate. Gradually add the rest of the whole wheat flour until the dough can be gathered into a ball. Stretch and fold the dough for 3 to 5 minutes, until it is smooth and cohesive. Fold the dough into a ball and place it in a clean, lightly oiled bowl. Cover tightly with a plastic bag and refrigerate 12 hours, or up to a week.

Take the dough out of the refrigerator at least 2 hours before baking and allow to warm to room temperature. Divide the dough into 16 pieces and roll each piece into a ball. Cover with a towel and let rest 5 minutes.

Heat a large griddle over medium-high heat. On a floured surface, press a ball of dough with your hand to flatten it into a circle. Roll or stretch the dough to make a disk less than 1/4-inch thick. Ask your friends to keep rolling out the pita while you start to cook them.

Lay one or two breads onto the hot griddle. You should see bubbles forming in the dough almost immediately. Flip the breads over after 15 to 20 seconds. Cook about one minute, until you see large bubbles pushing up the surface. Flip again and cook another 40 to 60 seconds. Push gently on the edges of the bubbles to help them expand. Ideally, the breads will fill with air, but un-inflated ones are still delicious. Wrap cooked breads in a thick towel to keep them warm and soft until ready to eat.

Lavash: Roll the dough out as for pita, let it rest for a minute, and continue to roll it thinner. Alternate rolling and resting until the dough is about 1/16th-inch thick or less. Heat a large wok upside down over a gas flame. Transfer the dough onto the surface of the wok. Cook 20 to 30 seconds, flip and cook the second side another 20 to 30 seconds.

*Kuku/Koukouye

This is a recipe from a special Turkish meal we ate in a village named Opium, where we also were served poppy seeds ground up like peanut butter. The kuku was full of herbs, wild greens and dried cherries. We tore off pieces of flatbread, wrapped up slices of kuku, and dipped them in yogurt. Like frittata, kuku can be made with a wide variety of vegetables and herb combinations, such as lightly steamed cauliflower or broccoli or sautéed mushrooms, leeks, or summer squash. The inclusion of barberries or sour cherries is a typical Persian touch.

Ingredients: 6 large eggs, 3 Tbs yogurt, 1 Tbs flour, 1/4 tsp baking soda, 1 tsp ground cumin, 1/4 tsp red chile flakes, 1/4 tsp nutmeg, 2 Tbs olive oil or butter, 1 finely chopped onion, 2 crushed garlic cloves, one or two bunches wild or cultivated greens (spinach, kale, chard, chicory, borage, mustard…), 1/2 cup chopped scallions, 1 1/2 cups chopped fresh herbs (parsley, coriander, dill, garlic chives, fennel, mint…), 3 Tbs chopped dried cranberries or sour cherries, salt and freshly ground black pepper

Kuku may be cooked in a large skillet on top of the stove and finished under a preheated broiler, or baked in an oven preheated to 350 degrees F.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the eggs, yogurt, baking powder, and spices. Whisk together lightly and set aside. Warm the oil in a large, ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Stir in the onion and cook 4 or 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and cook another minute. Wash and chop the greens into narrow strips. Put the still-wet leaves into the pan. Cover and steam to wilt, 1 or 2 minutes. Stir in the scallions, herbs, and dried fruit. Season with salt and pepper. Combine the greens with the eggs in the mixing bowl. Lightly oil the skillet and pour the kuku back into the hot pan. Cook the kuku over low heat 6 to 10 minutes and finish under the broiler to brown the top, or bake in the oven 15 to 20 minutes, until the eggs are set.

Serve warm or at room temperature, cut into narrow wedges

*Marinated feta (or fresh mozzarella)

8 oz crumbled feta cheese, 1 tsp each cumin, caraway, and fennel seed (toasted and lightly crushed), 1 Tbs chopped fresh oregano, thyme, or mint leaves, 1/4 tsp red chile flakes, 2 or 3 Tbs extra virgin olive oil to drizzle on top

*Pickled Habanero-Ginger Grapes a la Joe

These were a huge hit. I found they make a wonderful salsa combined with cucumber or mango, chiles, and red onion. Joe adapted this recipe from the book Salsas, Sambals, Chutneys and Chowchows, by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby.

In a large saucepan, combine 1 1/2 cups white vinegar, 1/2 brown sugar, 1 cup white sugar, 2 Tbs crushed coriander seeds, 1 Tbs ground cinnamon, 7 whole cloves, and 1 tsp salt. Bring to a boil and stir to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and add about 1-inch piece thinly sliced ginger, 1 thinly sliced habanero or 3 jalapeno chiles. Pour the mixture over 3 cups green and red seedless grapes (Joe cut them in half), and let stand 1 hour before serving. The pickled grapes keep beautifully in the refrigerator.

*Tunisian Caponata

Suzy based her caponata on a recipe found in Mollie Katzen’s Still Life With Menu, a book of meatless menus and original art. It is equally delicious on pita, bruschetta, or cornbread.

Ingredients: 1 large sweet onion (chopped), 1 1/2 lbs eggplant (unpeeled 1-inch cubes), 2 diced celery stalks, 3 or 4 thinly sliced garlic cloves, 3 or 4 Tbs extra virgin olive oil, 1/2 tsp coarse sea salt, 2 to 4 Tbs red or white wine vinegar, one 14-oz can crushed plum tomatoes (or 2 to 3 Tbs tomato paste), one 6-oz. jar marinated artichoke hearts, 2 Tbs capers, 1/2 cup cut up black and green olives, 2 Tbs fresh mint or parsley.

Warm 2 Tbs olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and sauté 5 to 8 minutes, until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute. Add 1 more Tbs oil, eggplant cubes, celery, and salt. Cover and cook 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant is tender. Stir in the tomatoes or tomato paste and vinegar to your taste. Heat to a simmer and stir in the olives. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the capers and artichoke hearts (drained and chopped). Sprinkle the herbs on top. Serve at room temperature.

I like to make this by grilling or roasting the vegetables separately before combining them with olives, vinegar, capers, and herbs to make the caponata. Sweet red peppers are a welcome addition. Arthur Schwartz describes an easy-to-use baked version in his book, The Southern Italian Table: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Cut onion, sweet red peppers, and celery into 1/2-inch dice. Cut the unpeeled eggplant into 1-inch cubes. Toss the vegetables with 4 Tbs olive oil, 2 Tbs vinegar, and 1 tsp salt. Mix in the garlic and tomatoes. Scoop the mixture into a roasting pan and bake 60 to 90 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and the pan juices are thick. Stir in the remaining ingredients (artichokes optional), except the herbs, and let cool. Sprinkle on the herbs before serving.

*Spiced Chickpea Salad

Ingredients: 2 cups cooked chickpeas, spice mix (1/2 tsp ground cumin, 1/2 tsp ground allspice, 1/2 tsp ground coriander), 1/4 tsp kosher or sea salt, 2 Tbs olive oil, 2 tsp whole cumin seed, 1 finely chopped medium red onion, 1 Tbs chopped garlic, 1 Tbs minced fresh ginger, 1 minced jalapeno or serrano chile, 1 diced red or yellow bell pepper, 1/2 cup chopped cilantro, 1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley, 2 cups chopped curly endive (optional)

Vinaigrette: 2 or 3 Tbs extra virgin olive oil, 2 Tbs fresh lemon juice, zest of 1 lemon, 1/2 tsp salt, 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Drain the chickpeas, put in a shallow bowl and toss to coat with the spice mix and salt. Set aside. Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the cumin seed and cook about 20 seconds. Add the onion, stir to coat with oil, and cook 5 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger, and chile and stir 30 seconds. Add the chickpeas and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl, toss with the diced pepper, herbs, and endive. Drizzle with vinaigrette

*Yogurt Soup

Ingredients: 2 cups plain whole milk or reduced-fat yogurt, 2 garlic cloves, 1 cup finely chopped fresh herbs (parsley, cilantro, dill, mint, chives), 1/4 cup finely chopped scallions, 1/2 tsp sea salt, freshly ground black pepper, 1 minced jalapeno (optional), 1 large cucumber, milk or water to thin

Crush, peel, and chop or pound the garlic into a paste with a pinch of coarse salt. Mix the garlic paste and all the other ingredients into the yogurt. Add the peeled, seeded, and diced cucumber. Season with salt and black pepper and thin with milk or water, if you like.

Meal in a Bowl: Central Asian Rice and Beans…

  …what to eat with your fabulous chile sauces (see previous post)!

Pilaf, Pulao, Pilau, Polow, Palov–these are all names for the grain dishes of Central Asia, culinary cousins of Spanish paella or Italian risotto. The names change from country to country, but the preparation techniques are similar: grains are sautéed in oil or butter with aromatic spices and cooked with various other ingredients to create a dish rich in flavor and beautiful to look at. Add beans or lentils, and you have a meal in a bowl.

Long grain white Basmati rice is the traditional grain of choice for many pilaf recipes because it is refined, fragrant, and has the perfect texture for absorbing seasonings and remaining distinct. Other grains can replace the white Basmati with delicious results, and combining two or three grains in one dish makes for interesting variations in taste and texture. Special pilaf dishes are often made for celebrations and holidays–infused with saffron and decorated with flower petals, pomegranate seeds, and candied orange peel. Even a more humble pilaf  is rich with flavor and makes a festive and aromatic centerpiece for any meal.

Making pilaf dishes provides a good opportunity to explore the qualities of different kinds of grains as well as the wide selection of rices available. Long-grain rices are preferable for pilaf because their grains become fluffy and distinct when cooked. I often cook with brown basmati and brown jasmine rice, which are mild and tender but chewier and more assertive than white rice. California wehani and Bhutanese red rice are both good in pilaf, adding earthy, nutty flavor and beautiful red-brown color. My pilafs often include farro, kamut, pearled barley, bulgur, quinoa, or wild rice.  Be sure to cook grains with different cooking times separately. Soaking brown rice or other whole grains 1/2 to 2 hours in room temperature water allows the grains to swell more fully and reduces the cooking time somewhat.

Indian Rice and Beans Pullao

Ingredients: 3/4 cup mung beans (or substitute split mung beans or red lentils), 2 bay leaves, one 2-inch cinnamon stick, 1/2 tsp salt, 1 1/2 cups white basmati rice, 1 Tbs oil, 1 Tbs butter, 1 tsp coriander seed, 2 cardamom pods, 1 1/2 cups diced onion, 1 cups diced carrot, 1 1/2 Tbs minced ginger, one chopped serrano chile, 2 cups water

Tarka: 1 1/2 Tbs oil, 1 tsp cumin seed, 1 tsp black mustard seed, 1/2 tsp fennel seed, 1/2 tsp fenugreek seed

Wash the beans or lentils in several changes of water. Drain and put in a saucepan with 3 cups water and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer 15 to 25 minutes, until tender. Remove from the heat, drain excess liquid, and stir in 1/2 tsp salt.

Wash the rice in several changes of lukewarm water, drain, and set aside. Warm the oil and butter in a Dutch oven or similar pot over medium heat. When hot, add the coriander seed and cardamom pods; cook 10 to 20 seconds. Add the onion and cook 5 or 6 minutes. Add the carrot, ginger, chile, and rice and stir-fry 1 or 2 minutes. Add 2 cups water and 1/2 tsp salt; bring to a boil, stirring gently. Reduce the heat, cover tightly, and simmer over low heat 20 to 25 minutes, until all the water is absorbed. Remove from the heat and let sit 10 minutes.

Make the tarka: Warm 1 1/2 Tbs oil in a skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the spices and cook about 30 seconds. Add the cooked rice and stir to distribute the spice-oil. Gently stir in the beans. Season to taste with salt, cover and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 minutes.

Garnish: Chutney of chopped cucumber, diced tomato, minced shallot and ginger, and chopped fresh mint; dressed with fresh lime juice and a sprinkle of salt, with a bowl of fresh chile-garlic sauce on the side

Persian Rice and Lentil Polow

Ingredients: 1 1/2 cups brown basmati rice, 1 cup small brown or green lentils, 2 Tbs oil, 1 tsp cumin seed, 2 tsp coriander seed, one 2-inch stick cinnamon, 2 cardamom pods, 1 1/2 cups thinly sliced onion, 2 carrots cut in short matchsticks, 1 1/2 cup diced tomatoes (fresh or canned), 1/2 cup currants or dried cranberries, 1/2 tsp ground allspice,  1/2 cup chopped parsley

Garnish: toasted walnuts and quick pickled lemon slices

Wash the rice. Put the rice in a pan, cover with plenty of lukewarm water, and set aside to soak 1/2 to 2 hours (this helps the rice absorb water more easily when it cooks). Wash the lentils and check for grit or small stones; drain. Put the lentils in a saucepan with 3 cups water and 1/2 tsp salt. Simmer gently 15 to 20 minutes, until just tender. Drain and set aside.

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. When hot, add the coriander, cumin, cinnamon and cardamom; stir 10 to 20 seconds, until fragrant. Add the onion, stir to coat with oil, and cook 6 to 8 minutes. Add the carrots and drained rice; stir-fry 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, currants, and allspice. Add 3 cups water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover tightly, and simmer 30 to 35 minutes, until all the water has been absorbed. Remove from the heat and let sit, covered, 10 minutes. Stir the lentils and parsley into the rice and fluff gently with a fork.

Season the polow with salt and freshly ground black pepper, transfer to a serving platter, and top with toasted nuts and lemon slices. Serve with zhoug or other fresh salsa.

 Three-Grain Pilaf with Spiced Chickpeas

OK, two of the three “grains” are not true grains–wild rice is a grass (if you are really lucky, someone will harvest it for you from their canoe), and quinoa is the seed of a plant related to lamb’s quarters.  Each has a unique texture and flavor to contribute, and the combination becomes more interesting. Because they require different lengths of time to cook, the grains need to be cooked separately.

Ingredients: 1/2 cup wild rice, 2/3 cup quinoa, 2/3 cup farro, pearled barley, or coarse bulgur wheat), 1 1/2 Tbs oil, 1 Tbs cumin seed, 2 tsp mustard seed, 1 cup finely chopped onion, 3/4 cup diced carrot, 1/3 cup chopped sundried tomato, 1 Tbs chopped garlic, 1 Tbs minced ginger, 1 minced fresh hot chile, zest of 1 orange, salt, and water

Garnish: chopped toasted nuts or seeds, chopped fresh herbs (parsley, cilantro, mint, basil, dill…), lemon slices

Wash the wild rice, drain, and put it in a pot with 1 cup water. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer until all the water is absorbed–15 minutes for truly wild rice, about 40 minutes for cultivated wild rice. Toast the quinoa  in a dry heavy skillet 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a saucepan with 1 1/3 cup water. Bring to a boil, cover tightly, and simmer over low heat 15 minutes. Note: true wild rice and quinoa may be cooked together, as they cook in the same length of time.

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the cumin and mustard seeds and cook 10 to 20 seconds. Add the onion and cook until translucent, about 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the carrot, tomato, ginger, garlic, chile, orange zest, and grain, stir-fry 2 or 3 minutes. Add 1 1/3 cups water and 1 tsp salt, bring to a boil, cover tightly, and simmer over low heat until all the water is absorbed–15 to 20 minutes for bulgur, 25 to 35 minutes for farro or barley.

Make the spiced chickpeas. Toss 1 1/2 cup cooked chickpeas with 1 1/2 tsp curry powder. Heat 1 Tbs oil in a skillet. Stir-fry 2 tsp cumin seeds 10 to 20 seconds. Add the chickpeas and cook 1 to 2 minutes.

Gently combine the chickpeas, wild rice, and quinoa with the cooked grain. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Transfer to a serving dish and top with toasted seeds or nuts and a generous handful chopped fresh herbs. Serve with fresh or quick pickled lemon.

Wild Rice Pilaf

A quick and easy pilaf…make it with freshly cooked wild rice, or use some other rice or kernal grain. It’s a great way to turn leftover rice into something delicious.

Ingredients: 1 cup wild rice, 2 Tbs olive oil, 1 finely chopped medium-large sweet onion, 2 or 3 diced carrots, 1 diced red bell pepper, 1/3 cup dried cranberries or currants, 2/3 cup chopped fresh parsley, salt and freshly ground black pepper

Wash the wild rice in several changes of water, drain, and put in a saucepan with 2 cups water. Bring to a boil, cover tightly, and simmer over low heat until all the water is absorbed and the grain is tender. Cook true wild rice 15 minutes, cultivated wild rice 40 to 50 minutes. Add more water if needed.

Warm the oil in a large skillet over medium heat.  Stir in the onion and cook a few minutes until translucent. Add the carrot and bell pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes until the vegetables are tender. Add the cooked grain and dried fruit to the pan and stir to combine. Season with salt and black pepper and stir in the chopped parsley.

Serve with harissa, preserved lemon, or a bowl of yuzu kosho.

Welcome additions: steamed green beans, snap peas, shelled peas, or fava beans

Flavor Jolts: Citrus and Chiles (How to make anything taste delicious)

As this winter drags on, and the snow keeps falling, my thoughts drift to the woman we met in Southern Italy with her giant bottle of fig conserve. I love the photo of her–the big smile and her joy in having a supply of flavor to last all winter. If I were the one in the photo, my jar of winter flavor would be full of the brightness of citrus and the heat of chiles.

If I had just one bottle of something wonderful to get me through the winter, it would Justin’s Smoked Jalapeno Sauce. Justin takes red-ripe jalapeno peppers (he chooses them because they are thick fleshed, hot, and fruity), smokes them in his dad’s smoker (a metal box holding a gas flame, pan of wood chips, and racks for holding layers of chiles), blends the smoked chiles with vinegar, and puts the sauce in jars. Delicious, un-messed-with chile flavor.

I use Justin’s sauce frequently–a little slug in a pot of beans or stew, mixed with diced tomato and fresh herbs for salsa, mashed with avocado and diced onion for guacamole, blended with soft cheese, or splashed into a tapenade or hummus. Perhaps the most memorable use of this sauce was the Thanksgiving Day Bloody Mary prepared by Justin’s cousin– a flavor slam including green olives stuffed with blue cheese, celery, and pepperoncini in addition to the Smoked Jalapeno Sauce.

The sauce is a great stand-in for fresh chiles because it has such a bright, pure taste. It’s the kind of sauce that makes you say, “Wow. If you bottled and sold this stuff, you could get rich!” But that’s the point– processing changes the flavor. What you make at home with fresh ingredients tastes better. With a good supply of fresh lemons and limes, a jar of preserved lemons, and plenty of fresh and dried chiles, you can make anything taste good.

Zhoug 

What a great name! This is what to make if you don’t have a supply of Justin’s Smoked Jalapeno Salsa. Zhoug is an herb-packed green chile salsa created by the Yemeni community in Israel.

Ingredients: 3 medium-hot green chiles (Anaheim or Hungarian Wax), 1 jalapeno or serrano chile, 1 cup chopped cilantro leaves, 1/2 cup chopped parsley leaves, 1 Tbs minced garlic, 1 Tbs. finely chopped preserved lemon or fresh lemon juice, 1/2 tsp sea salt, 1 tsp toasted and ground cumin seed, 1/4 tsp ground cardamom, 1/8 tsp ground cloves

Stem, seed, and chop the chiles. Use a large mortar and pestle or food processor to pound or chop all the ingredients to make a thick salsa.

Serve zhoug with pita breads and anything you would like to stuff into them–grilled meats or chicken, lentil or chickpea salad, hummus, roasted vegetables…Or put a bowl on the table to liven up hearty soups, lentil and beans dishes, and grain salads.

Harissa

A North African chile -spice paste, Harissa can be fiery hot or moderately hot, depending on the amount and type of chiles used. I like to make it with fresh roasted red chiles when they ripen in the fall, but dried chiles work any time of year. Use any variety of hot red chiles, choosing your heat level from mildly-hot poblano (ancho) or New Mexico-type chiles to red ripe jalapeno, cayenne, or hotter.

Ingredients: 9 to 12 oz. fresh red hot chiles, or 4 or 5 ancho or dried New Mexico/ California chiles (2 oz, or 3/4 cup small dried hot chiles (about 1 1/2 oz), 1 tsp coriander seeds, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 1 1/2 tsp caraway seeds, 4 to 6 lightly smashed garlic cloves, 1 medium-small onion or 2 to 3 shallots, 2 finely chopped sundried tomatoes or 1 1/2 tsp tomato paste (optional), 2 to 4 Tbs olive oil, 2 to 3 Tbs lemon juice, 1/2 tsp salt

Roast fresh chiles over a gas flame or grill fire until the skin is blistered and charred all over. Put them in a bowl and cover with a towel to let the steam loosen the skins. Peel and seed, unless you want extra heat. Toast dried chiles briefly; cover with warm water and soak 30 to 40 minutes, until soft. Dry roast the cumin and caraway 30 seconds or so, and the coriander seed 1 to 2 minutes on a heavy skillet over medium heat. Cool, and grind to a powder. Slice the onion or shallots about 1/3-inch thick and dry roast 5 to 6 minutes per side.

Put all the ingredients in a food processor (drain, seed, and chop soaked chiles) and process to a smooth paste. Add more olive oil or water to thin. Store in a small jar with a thin layer of olive oil on top. Harissa wiil keep in the refrigerator 2 to 3 weeks, or in the freezer up to 3 months.

Use Harissa as a condiment for grilled meats or roasted vegetables, stir it into soups and stews, or serve it with couscous or rice pilaf. Combine some harissa with extra virgin olive oil or yogurt for dipping bread or steamed vegetables. My favorite: harissa and goat cheese smeared on a cracker or tortilla.

Romesco

Romesco is the great pepper sauce of Spain, rich with toasted nuts and flavored with the mildly spicy nyora pepper. The ancho chile of Mexico is easily available and makes a reasonable substitute.

Ingredients: 1 large ancho chile, 1 head roasted garlic, 1/4 cup toasted almonds or hazelnuts, 2 plum tomatoes (roasted, oven-dried, or canned), 1 large roasted red bell pepper (fresh or canned), 2 garlic cloves mashed with a pinch of coarse salt, 2 tsp red wine vinegar, 2 tsp balsamic vinegar, 1/8 tsp red chile flakes or cayenne, salt and black pepper

Split the ancho chile in half, remove the stem and seeds, and toast 15 to 20 seconds on a hot skillet. Cover the chile with warm water and soak until soft, 30 to 40 minutes.

Use a food processor to finely chop the almonds. Add the drained and chopped chile and roasted garlic cloves and process to a paste. Add the tomato, peeled and seeded bell pepper, raw garlic, and 2 Tbs olive oil and process to a smooth puree. Season to taste with vinegar, hot chile, salt and freshly ground black pepper. Stir in more olive oil as desired.

Variations (of which there are many!): Make the sauce with 2 ancho chiles and omit the roasted red bell pepper. Or make the sauce with a combination of roasted red bell peppers and Harissa or other chile paste. Add 1/4 cup fine toasted bread crumbs to the puree to thicken the sauce.

Romesco is a delicious topping for fish or grilled meats, a seasoning for braises, or a sauce for steamed new potatoes, grilled or braised leeks or spring onions, or roasted fennel or cauliflower.

*Thai Chile-Garlic Paste: A simple way to brighten your life, as well as your food.

Put a little dab on anything that needs the spark of life–noodles, fried rice, scrambled eggs….Mix some with equal parts lime juice, toasted sesame oil, and soy sauce to make a dressing for Asian noodle salads.

Ingredients: 4 fresh serrano chiles (or 2 Thai bird and 1 or 2 jalapeno chiles), 1 Tbs chopped garlic, 1/8 tsp coarse sea salt, 1 Tbs fresh lime juice, 1/2 tsp lime zest

Seed, stem, and chop the chiles. Pound the chiles, garlic, and salt together using a mortar and pestle. Stir in the lime juice and zest.

 Yuzu Kosho

Yuzu Kosho is a Japanese chile-citrus paste. Yuzu is a fragrant-skinned lemon-like Japanese citrus that, like the bitter limes or sour oranges of Mexico, is hard to duplicate. I use Meyer lemon or a combination of orange, lemon, and grapefruit zests. I made an experimental batch with equal parts of Justin’s Smoked Jalapeno Sauce and preserved lemons and oranges. Unconventional, but outrageously good!

Ingredients: 3 to 4 Tbs citrus zest, 4 small fresh green or red chiles (something like a Thai bird chile or serrano), 1 Tbs coarse sea salt or more, to taste

Use a microplane (it will change your life) to remove the zest. Put the zest (or substitute equal amount preserved lemon) in a mortar with the seeded and chopped chiles and salt. Grind to paste. Store in a small glass jar in the refrigerator.

Eat this with roasted root vegetables, a bowl of noodles or rice, or with stir-fries. I ate it on everything until it was gone.

 Quick Pickled Lemons from Jerusalem (the cookbook)

While I waited (actually, I didn’t) four weeks for my preserved lemons to become more delicious, as Ottalenghi and Tamimi promised, I tried another of their recipes. These lemon slices are ready to eat in just 24 hours and are just as quick to become an addictive condiment. Playing around with the spices is fun–more or less chile, maybe a little fennel, cardamom, or black pepper…I added a little fresh thyme to some, rosemary another time.

Ingredients: 1 small red chile (fresh or dried), 3 Tbs fresh lemon juice, 3 organic unwaxed lemons (I used Meyer), 1 1/2 tsp coarse sea salt, 1 crushed garlic clove, 1/4 tsp toasted and ground cumin seed, 1/2 tsp toasted and ground coriander seeds, 1 tsp sweet or hot paprika, sugar (optional)

Seed and chop the chile. Using a mortar and pestle, pound the chile to a paste with a pinch of salt and 1 tsp lemon juice (include the garlic clove in the paste for stronger garlic flavor). Cut the lemons in half, or quarters if large. Slice crosswise as thinly as possible. Put all the ingredients into a bowl and rub the flavorings into the lemon slices with your hands. Add 1 to 3 Tbs sugar, if you like. The Meyer lemons are sweet enough for me without sugar. Leave covered for 24 hours. Transfer to a clean glass container with a tight fitting lid. Store in the refrigerator up to 2 weeks.

Serve these slices with couscous and rice dishes, stews and braises, salads and sandwiches, dips and spreads… any time you want some bright, sharp flavor.

Spicing up Winter Soups

It’s the end of winter–the season of the root cellar. That’s where I go for the ingredients for winter soups: potatoes, parsnips, carrots, turnips, cabbage, winter squash, onions, and leeks. These are humble ingredients, full of mellow, earthy flavors. These understated flavors beg for some pizzazz, so cooking with them provides a perfect opportunity to play with spices. Lentils and Indian dals (beans) combine well with winter vegetables, so making curry powders and spice blends is a natural path to follow.

Spice Basics: Spices begin to lose their flavor as soon as they are ground (that’s one reason it is so satisfying to use a mortar and pestle –you get to enjoy the wonderful aroma of fresh spices as they are ground). Start with whole spices whenever possible and grind them in small amounts. To get the most fragrant spices, shop from mail-order sources or stores with customers who appreciate spices and buy them frequently. Protect all spices from air, light, and heat.

Releasing Flavor: Before spices can impart their full flavor to foods, they need a little help. Cracking, grinding, dry-roasting (toasting), and blooming are all methods of releasing the flavors of spices.

*Grinding, Cracking, Crushing: These methods release aromatic oils. Coarsely ground or cracked spices add little jolts of flavor and interesting texture to a dish. A fine grind can be more subtle and blends in more evenly. I usually toast (dry roast) whole spices before grinding to use in marinades or add to dishes near the end of cooking.

*Dry roasting: This method toasts whole spices without oil or liquid, transforming spices the same way toasting bread does. It is best to toast each kind of spice separately, as they require different amounts of time. Heat a dry, heavy bottomed skillet over medium heat. Add the whole spice and stir or shake the pan continually to prevent scorching. Toast until the spices are fragrant and lightly browned. Transfer immediately to a spice grinder or mortar and allow to cool before grinding.

*Blooming: Cooking whole spices in oil extracts flavor and aroma quickly. Warm a few Tbs oil in a pan over medium heat. Add whole spices to the pan and cook until small bubbles rise around the spices. Turn the heat down or off and stir a minute or so until the spices are fragrant but not browned. Bloomed spices can be the way to begin a recipe, or poured over the top of a finished dish (spice oil for finishing is called Tarka). Ground spices made into a paste with moist ingredients like garlic, ginger, and fresh herbs and chiles are also bloomed at the start of cooking.

Playing with spices: Start with one or two spices at a time. Cumin, either whole or ground, is friendly presence in a wide variety of dishes. Cumin and coriander or cumin and mustard seed enhance each other, and the three spices are often used together. Their flavors are companionable and taste earthy and warm. Fennel is another easy-to-add spice that is welcome in food from Italy to India.

Start small. A little can go a long way. A good way to experiment is to toast and grind the spice or spice mixture to a powder. Add a pinch or two at the end of cooking, stir and taste. You can always add more. Adding spices to a bowl of potato soup or other simple stew can be a revelation. Or, put a few pinches of whole spice into the oil at the start of a stir-fry or braise; cook about 30 seconds before adding other aromatics.

Harira with Baharat and Meatballs

A hearty mixture of grains, lentils, and chickpeas, Harira is a Moroccan soup commonly served during the fasting month of Ramadan. This is an excellent soup for a blustery winter night, with or without the meatballs. Baharat is an Arab spice mix.

Baharat: 1 tsp black peppercorns, 2 tsp coriander seeds, 1 3-inch cinnamon stick, 5 or 6 whole allspice or cloves, 2 tsp cumin seed, seeds from 2 cardamom pods, 1/2 tsp grated nutmeg. Break the cinnamon stick into pieces. Dry-roast all the spices except the cardamom and nutmeg. Grind to a powder in a spice grinder.

Meatballs: 8 oz ground beef, 6 to 8 oz ground lamb or turkey, 1 small chopped onion, 2 finely chopped garlic cloves, 1 beaten egg, 4 Tbs bread crumbs, 1/2 cup chopped fresh herbs (parsley, cilantro, mint, thyme), 2 tsp Baharat spice mix (or 1 tsp ground cumin and 1/4 tsp each ground cinnamon, allspice, and nutmeg), 1/2 tsp salt, and 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper.

Put all the ingredients together in a bowl. Mix with your hands and shape into small balls about 1-inch in diameter. Warm 2 Tbs olive oil over medium heat in a large skillet. When the oil is hot, fry the meatballs until browned on all sides. Set aside.

Ingredients for soup: 2 Tbs olive oil, 1 large chopped onion, 2 cloves chopped garlic, 1 cup diced carrots, 3/4 cup chopped celery, 1 cup diced parsnip, 1 cup brown lentils, 1 cup barley, farro, or bulgur wheat, 4 cups vegetable, chicken, or meat broth, 2 cups water, 1 1/2 cups diced fresh or canned tomatoes with juice, 1 Tbs tomato paste, 2 tsp ground coriander, 1 2-inch cinnamon stick, 1 tsp salt, 2 tsp Baharat, 1 1/2 cups cooked chickpeas, chickpea liquid or water to thin soup, 1 cup chopped parsley leaves, 1/2 cup chopped coriander leaves, salt and black pepper. Lemon wedges for serving.

Warm the oil in a large Dutch oven or soup pot over medium heat. Stir in the onion and cook until softened, 5 or 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook one minute. Stir in the carrots, celery, and parsnips and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, tomato paste, ground coriander, cinnamon stick, and salt. Cook 1 or 2 minutes. Add the grain and stir for a couple of minutes. Add the broth, water, and the lentils. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer gently over low heat 20 to 25 minutes. When the grain is barely tender, add the Baharat, meatballs, chickpeas, and more liquid as needed. Simmer another 15 to 20 minutes, until the grain is fully cooked. Stir in the fresh herbs and season to your taste with salt and black pepper.

Cauliflower and Potato Curry with Chickpeas

Marcella Hazen wrote in her cookbook of Classic Italian Cooking, “Soups are where good leftovers go when they are reborn.” Leftovers from a dinner of rice, dal, and curried vegetables found a new home in this culinary collision of Indian curry and Middle Eastern spiced chickpeas. 

Garam Masala: 11/2 Tbs cumin seed, 1 1/2 Tbs coriander seed, 1 1/2 Tbs black peppercorns, 1/2 tsp fennel seed, 1 tsp whole cloves, 4 green cardamom pods, 3-inch stick whole cinnamon, 1/2 tsp grated nutmeg, 1 tsp crushed red chiles

Dry roast the spices (except the nutmeg and chiles). Transfer to a spice grinder and grind to a fine powder.

Curry ingredients: 2 Tbs butter, 1 Tbs vegetable oil, 1 tsp whole cumin seed, 1 tsp whole coriander seed, 1 tsp whole black mustard seed, 1 thinly sliced medium onion, 1 minced small hot chile, 2 Tbs grated ginger, 2 cloves crushed garlic, 1 1/2 cups fresh or canned diced tomatoes, 2 carrots cut in 1/4-inch slices, 1 lb potatoes (or winter squash) cut in 1-inch chunks, 1 medium head cauliflower cut into florets, 1 tsp salt, 1 1/2 cups water or broth, garam masala, 1 1/2 cups cooked chickpeas (1 15-oz can), 1 tsp whole cumin seed, 1/4 tsp red chile flakes, chopped fresh coriander, parsley, and mint leaves, and yogurt.

Warm the butter and oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat with the whole spices. When they are fragrant and sizzling, stir in the onion and cook 5 or 6 minutes. Add the chile, ginger and garlic and cook 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and their juice and heat to a simmer. Stir in the carrots, potato, and cauliflower and stir to combine. Sprinkle with salt and the water or broth. Cover, and simmer 20 to 25 minutes, stirring once or twice. When the potatoes (or squash) are tender, gently stir in 1 tsp garam masala. Taste, and add more spice or salt if desired. Simmer 5 more minutes over very low heat.

While the vegetables cook, make the spiced chickpeas: Put the drained chickpeas in a bowl and toss with 1 tsp garam masala  (or 1 tsp ground cumin seed, 1 tsp ground allspice, and 1/2 tsp ground cardamom), and 1/4 tsp salt. Warm 2 Tbs olive oil with 2 cloves minced garlic and 1/4 tsp red chile flakes in a skillet over medium heat. Cook about 1 minute, then stir in the chickpeas. Cook 2 or 3 minutes, shaking the pan or stirring to toast evenly. Add the chickpeas to the curry. Sprinkle the top with a handful of chopped fresh herbs.

I added the leftover moong dal (red lentils) to the stew, as well. To try that incarnation, cook 3/4 cup well washed dal in a saucepan with 4 cups water. Bring to a boil and add 2  bay leaves and a small stick cinnamon. Simmer until the dal is tender, about 25 minutes. The dal should be thick but soup-like. Remove the bay and cinnamon. Stir in 1/4 tsp turmeric and 1/2 tsp or more salt, to taste. Stir the cooked dal into the vegetable curry before adding the chickpeas. 

South Indian Lentil Stew with Sambhar Masala

Made with quick-cooking dal (small lentils, beans, and peas used in Indian cooking) and a generous amount of winter root vegetables, this soup is a lovely, warm yellow. Make your own Sambhar Masala, or substitute another curry powder.

Sambhar Masala: 1 1/2 Tbs channa or urad dal, 2 Tbs coriander seed, 1 1/2 tsp fenugreek, 1 tsp black peppercorns, 1 Tbs cumin seed, 1 Tbs black mustard seed, 6 small dried hot chiles (or 2 tsp ground), 1/2 tsp turmeric, 6 to 8 dried curry leaves (optional)

Dry roast the dal or split peas over medium heat, stirring constantly for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the coriander, peppercorns, and fenugreek. Continue to stir 2 to 3 more minutes, until the spices are fragrant and lightly browned. Transfer to a mortar or spice grinder. Dry roast the dal, cumin, and mustard seeds. Combine with the other spices, red chiles (remove seeds for less heat), and curry leaves. Grind to a fine powder and stir in the turmeric.

The stew ingredients: 1 1/4 cups masoor or channa dal (red lentils or split mung beans), 2 Tbs vegetable oil, 2 cups diced onion, 1 cup diced carrot, 2 cups diced potato, or parsnip, 1 1/2 Tbs grated ginger, 1 Tbs chopped garlic, 1 finely chopped jalapeno, 1 tsp salt, 2 cups chopped fresh or canned tomatoes, 2 or 3 tsp Sambhar Masala spice mix (or other curry powder), 1 Tbs tamarind paste or fresh lemon juice

Wash the lentils well, drain, and set them aside. Warm the oil in a Dutch oven or soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion and carrot and cook 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the ginger, garlic, and jalapeno. Add a few Tbs water, sprinkle with salt, and cook 1 minute. Add the potatoes or parsnips, the lentils, and 6 cups water or broth.  Bring to a boil, and simmer partially covered for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring once or twice. When the lentils and vegetables are tender, stir in the spice mix, chopped tomato, and tamarind or lemon juice (tomatillo salsa is good, too). Simmer 5 to 10 more minutes. Puree the soup and check the seasoning. Serve with a dollop of plain yogurt or yogurt sauce.

Make a Tarka for this soup: Heat 2 Tbs oil in a small skillet or saucepan. When the oil is hot, add 2 tsp black mustard seed. Cook until they begin to pop. Add 1 tsp cumin seeds and cook about one minute. Pour the tarka into the soup, stir well, and serve.

Yellow Split Pea Soup with Chinese and Bengali 5-Spice

I just discovered the Bengali 5-spice mix at my favorite store for all things Asian, so I had to use it.  Bright orange Kabocha squash lends sweetness and color. Spices add fragrant warmth.

*Chinese 5-Spice: 4 whole star anise, 1 tsp fennel seed, 4-5 whole cloves, 2-inch stick cinnamon, 2 tsp Sichuan pepper

Dry roast the cloves, cinnamon (broken into pieces), and Sichuan pepper. Use a spice grinder to grind all the spices to a fine powder.

*Bengali 5-spice (Panch Phoran): 1 tsp brown mustard seed, 1 tsp cumin seed, 1 tsp fennel seed, 1 tsp onion seed (Kalonji) or nigella, 1/2 tsp fenugreek seed

This mixture of whole seeds is bloomed in oil to make a flavor base for braises, soups, and stir-fried dishes.

Ingredients: 1 1/2 cups yellow split peas, 1 Tbs butter, 1 Tbs olive oil, 1 tsp panch phoran or 1 tsp whole cumin seed, 2 thinly sliced medium onions, 2 thinly sliced garlic cloves, 1 Tbs minced ginger, 1 tsp salt, 6 cups vegetable broth or water, 1 tsp Chinese 5-spice powder, 4 to 5 cups winter squash or sweet potato cut in 1-inch cubes, 1/4 cup fresh orange juice, 1 Tbs fresh lime juice, 1 tsp orange zest

Put the split peas in a large saucepan and cover them by 2 inches with boiling water. Cover and let sit for 2 hours or longer.

Warm the butter and olive oil in a Dutch oven or soup pot. Add the cumin seed and cook 30 seconds. Stir in the onion and cook over medium-low heat 5 or 6 minutes. Add the garlic, and ginger. Cook 1 minute. Drain the split peas and add them to the pot with 1 tsp salt and 6 cups water or broth. Bring to a boil, then cover and simmer 20 minutes. Add the squash and 5-spice powder. Simmer 20 more minutes until the squash and peas are completely tender. Puree the soup in a blender with the orange juice. Season to taste with  salt, orange zest, and lime juice. Serve with yogurt sauce.

Yogurt Sauce

Plain yogurt is fine, and  yogurt sauce is even better. Mix 1 cup thick plain whole-milk yogurt with 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper, 1/2 tsp toasted and ground cumin seed (or 1/2 tsp freshly made spice powder), 1/2 tsp lemon or lime zest, a few Tbs chopped chives, mint, or cilantro, and salt to taste.

Variation: Add 2/3 cup finely chopped radish, or cucumber.

Culinary Collisions and a Medley of Marinades

Our good friends Joe and Suzy came by with another new cookbook. “Your food looks just like the pictures in this book, so I got it for you,” Joe told me. . The book is Jerusalem the Cookbook by Yotam Ottalenghi and Sami Tamimi, so I am in good company. One photo displays a plate of ground lamb topped with golden yellow egg yolks, shining red cherry tomatoes, a shower of emerald green parsley, and great globs of yogurt and spices. Their food is so startlingly beautiful it could be hanging on the walls of the Museum of Modern Art.

Reading through the book, I came across a passage describing Jerusalem as a collision of culinary traditions that creates an immense tapestry of cuisines. It brought to mind our travels in Sweden last summer, where we experienced some culinary sliding, if not actual collisions. More like a patchwork quilt than a tapestry. Sweden is very generous and welcoming to refugees and immigrants, and many new food traditions are arriving with them. In Overkalix, we ate Thai food and reindeer sausage at the big outdoor market; Nina fixed Lebanese chicken and tabouleh, and Beth and Annalie made dolmathes. When we visited Hans Karlsson, he made several traditional Swedish meals for us: smoked lake fish, pickled herring with all the fixings, new potatoes with butter and dill… but he also pulled out his favorite supplies from the local Turkish store.

One evening we planned an outing to a nearby island. We’d meet Hans’ son Andreas and his family, make a fire, and have a cookout. Hans asked if I would make a marinade for the chicken kebabs. “Sure. What do you have?” I asked. The pantry yielded a jar of eggplant stuffed with red pepper and walnuts in olive oil, Sambal Olek (Indonesian chile sauce), mushroom soy sauce, garlic, fresh ginger, lemons, and several varieties of sea salt–the ingredients for a fine marinade. I mixed together the flavorful oil from the jar of eggplants, garlic, ginger, chile sauce, soy sauce, and fresh lemon juice. I rolled the strips of chicken around in the bowl of marinade, scraped it all into a zip-lock bag, and we all got in the boat.

On the island, we threaded the chicken onto skewers with Halloumi cheese (a soft-curd cheese from Cyprus that is particularly good for grilling and frying) and Hungarian sausage. We ate our grilled chicken kebabs with Greek tsadziki, shrimp dip, and a French sourdough baguette, followed by Swedish sausages with mustard. It was a grand culinary collision, and a blissful view of the long Swedish sunset over the water.

Around the World in a Marinade

I love making and using marinades for traveling around the world of food. Making your own marinades from fresh ingredients is intoxicating and addictive, especially if you use a mortar and pestle to release the aromas of freshly toasted spices, fresh citrus, garlic and herbs. Marinades are great infusers of flavor, working wonders with chicken breasts, lean pork, lamb, mild fish or seafood, and tofu. Plan on roughly 3/4-cup marinade for 3 lb meat, poultry or fish. Coat the food completely with the marinade (enough to coat well, but not float), place it in a leak-proof plastic bag or covered glass container, and refrigerate. Marinating takes time: fish fillets 1 hour, boneless chicken and small portions of meat 2 to 4 hours, bone-in chicken, whole fish, and larger cuts of meat 6 to 12 hours, and tofu 2 to 12 hours. Turn the food every hour or so. After marinating, the food can be grilled, sautéed, sear-roasted, broiled, or roasted.

*Mediterranean Herbs and Olive Oil: 1 Tbs fresh thyme leaves, 1 Tbs fresh rosemary leaves, 1 Tbs oregano or mint leaves, 2 garlic cloves, juice and zest of 1 lemon, 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil, 1/2 tsp sea salt. Chop the herbs and garlic. Whisk all the ingredients together. Especially good for grilled or roasted chicken, pork or lamb chops, and whole fish.

Mediterranean Sear-Roast Chicken Breasts

Place 4 to 6 boneless skinless chicken breast halves in a shallow glass container and coat well with marinade (set aside un-used marinade to drizzle on after cooking). Cover and refrigerate at least 2 and preferably 4 hours. Heat the oven to 425 degrees F. Take the chicken out of the marinade and season lightly with salt. Heat a large ovenproof skillet over medium high heat. Add 1 Tbs olive, canola, or grapeseed oil to the pan, swirl it around, and place the chicken in the pan. Sear 2 minutes without moving. When well browned, turn the chicken over and cook 1 minute. Transfer the pan to the heated oven and roast 5 to 8 minutes to reach a temperature of 165 degrees F.

Serve this topped with a sauté of red peppers and onion: Warm 3 Tbs olive oil with some thinly sliced garlic and red chile flakes. Stir in 1 chopped red onion and sauté 3 or 4 minutes. Add two diced red bell peppers and sauté until softened. Add 1 Tbs balsamic vinegar, 1/3 cup dry white wine, and 1 Tbs capers. Cook until the liquid is reduced. Season with salt to taste.

*Asian Marinade: 1/4 cup soy sauce, 1/4 cup mirin, 1/4 cup sake, 1 1/2 Tbs grated ginger, 1 tsp orange zest (and/or 1 Tbs orange marmalade), 1 Tbs toasted sesame oil. Add 1 or 2 tsp chile sauce and 1 or 2 cloves minced garlic, if you like.

Equally good with roast  or grilled pork tenderloin, or sear-roast tofu.

Roast Pork Tenderloin with Asian Marinade

(Thanks to John Ash)

Combine 1 1/4 to 2 lbs pork tenderloin with the Asian marinade (about 1/2 cup per lb meat), rubbing the marinade into the meat. Place in a zip-lock bag or covered container and refrigerate 4 to 6 hours, turning two or three times during that time.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Remove the tenderloin from the marinade and place on a rack in a roasting pan. Add 1 cup water to the pan and roast 25 to 30 minutes, until the center of the meat reaches 155 degrees F. Baste with marinade two or three times while cooking. Allow the meat to rest 5 to 10 minutes before slicing.

I like to serve this thinly sliced on a bed of quickly stir-fried cabbage and ginger.

Baked Tofu

Cut a 14 oz block firm or extra-firm tofu into 4 slices. Place in a shallow container and cover with Asian marinade. Refrigerate 2 to 8 hours, turning the slices once or twice. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Heat an ovenproof skillet over medium high heat. When hot, add 1 Tbs oil and swirl to coat the pan. Place the tofu in the pan and cook 1 or 2 minutes until lightly browned. Turn the tofu over and transfer the pan to the oven. Roast 3 or 4 minutes.

Cut the slices into bite-size cubes and serve on top of a salad of thinly sliced Chinese cabbage, red peppers, and carrots dressed with a little sesame oil and rice vinegar…or a stir-fry of cabbage, bok choi, and mushrooms.

*Chermoula Moroccan Marinade: 1 1/2 tsp cumin seed, 1 1/2 tsp coriander seed, 1 tsp red chile flakes, 1 tsp sweet paprika, 2 garlic cloves, 1/4 tsp sea salt, juice and zest of 1 medium lemon (or 2 or 3 Tbs chopped preserved lemon**), 2 Tbs chopped fresh mint, 2 Tbs chopped fresh parsley or coriander leaves, 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil.

Heat a small skillet over medium heat. Toast the coriander seed 1 or 2 minutes, then add the cumin seed and toast another 30 seconds, shaking or stirring so they roast evenly. Add the red chile and paprika, stir, and immediately transfer to a mortar or spice grinder. Cool and grind to a coarse powder. Put the peeled garlic and the salt in the mortar and grind to a paste. Add the lemon zest and herbs and crush them into the spices to make a rough pesto. Whisk in the lemon juice and olive oil.

**Joe and Suzy got me hooked on making preserved lemons, they are so delicious and easy to make. I followed the ingredients in Ottolenghi’s cookbook: Wash 6 organic lemons and cut a deep cross from the top to the base so that each can be stuffed with 1 Tbs coarse sea salt. Push the lemons tightly into a sterilized wide mouth glass jar to fill all the space. Seal the jar and store in a cool place for a week. After a week, press the lemons down into the jar to squeeze out the juice. Add fresh lemon juice to cover. You can add a sprig of fresh rosemary and a red chile, if you like. Top off with a thin layer of olive oil. Seal and leave in a cool place for a month before using.

Use Chermoula to marinate lamb, goat, or chicken. Smear it on thickly sliced eggplant, sweet potatoes, or winter squash before baking. Or, toss it with steamed, roasted, or pan-braised vegetables. Carrots, parsnips, potatoes, and cauliflower are particularly good with these flavors.

Carrots in Chermoula

Steam or pan-braise 2 lbs thinly sliced carrots until just tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Combine the warm carrots with Chermoula, tossing to coat well. Season with salt to taste and sprinkle with more chopped fresh herbs. You can add a few Tbs plain yogurt to the dish, or serve a yogurt sauce to dollop on top.

Serve with a bulgur wheat, or farro and herb salad, or with lentil salad and pita breads.

*Chipotle-Citrus Marinade: 2/3 cup fresh orange juice, juice and zest of 1 lime (3 or 4 Tbs), 1 Tbs cider vinegar, 1 or 2 chipotle chiles en adobo, 2 tsp adobo sauce, 2 garlic cloves, 1/4 cup chopped white onion, 1 tsp toasted cumin seed, 2 tsp Tbs chopped fresh oregano, 2 Tbs chopped fresh mint or cilantro, 1 tsp salt, 1/4 cup olive oil

Use a blender to puree all the ingredients. This marinade is also delicious made with fresh jalapenos instead of chipotle en adobo. I often use lots more cilantro and just eat it on everything.

Mexican Pork (or Chicken) Kebabs 

Cut 2 to 2 1/2 lbs pork loin or tenderloin, or boneless skinless chicken thighs into 1 1/2-inch chunks. Combine the meat with 2/3 of the marinade in a shallow container or plastic bag to marinate in the refrigerator for 2 to 4 hours. Heat a charcoal or gas grill (or stovetop grill pan or broiler). Thread the cubes of meat onto skewers, leaving a little space in between so they will cook all around. Grill the kebabs 7 or 8 minutes, turning to brown all sides.

Serve with grilled or roasted wedges of sweet potato, red onion, and poblano or Anaheim chiles…with the reserved marinade for a splash of flavor.

Winter Squash Bonanza

Winter squash rise like moons out of the fall garden after their canopy of vines die. It’s always a surprise to see them…how many, and how large and beautiful! In the early years we planted them in our field corn and let them ramble between the rows. Neighbors gave us seed for a variety called “Sweetmeat”, a behemoth that I remember growing to the size of a Volkswagen, though it was probably only 60 or 70 lbs. I think it took us all winter to eat it.

Japanese winter squash, or Kabocha, have long been my favorites because of their rich flavor and dry flesh. I currently grow “Sunshine”, a brilliant orange, flavorful squash bred by Johnny’s Selected Seeds. Last season I trialed “Berrettina Piacentina”, a 3 to 5-pound handsome grey-green squash offered by Seeds From Italy, and it has gotten rave reviews. This year I’ll add “Eastern Rise” from Fedco Seeds, described as having a “rich nutty flavor in perfect balance.” Butternut squash, though not as deeply flavored, always has a place in the garden because it is resistant to squash vine borers and is a superb keeper.

Winter squash is a reliable and abundant winter staple for us, so I always like to experiment with new varieties to grow and more ways to use it. That’s easy, because winter squash is popular all around the world. Winter squash is great baked whole and scooped out to eat with butter and salt or turned into pie, but it also takes well to Indian or Thai curry spices, Japanese, Italian, Turkish, Middle-Eastern, and North African flavors. My newest experiments have been inspired by recipes in Jerusalem a Cookbook by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi.

Winter squash can be something like a winter substitute for eggplant. I grill or roast slices of squash and splash them with a vinaigrette, toss roasted chunks with greens and raw vegetables for salads, or combine the squash with other roasted vegetables for topping pasta or bruschetta. Now, I have discovered a squash version of baba ganoush!

Roasted Squash and Tahini Spread

Ottolenghi’s spread is slightly sweetened with date syrup and spiced with cinnamon. My version went in a more spicy direction, with red chile and cumin.

Ingredients: 2 1/2 cups roasted squash (about 1/2 of a medium winter squash, or 3 1/2 cups squash cut in 3/4-inch chunks), 4 Tbs chopped sundried or oven-dried tomatoes, 2 minced garlic cloves, zest of 1 lemon, 2 Tbs fresh lemon juice, 4 Tbs sesame tahini, 1 or 2 small red chiles (or 1/4 tsp or more cayenne or other hot red pepper), 1 tsp toasted and lightly crushed cumin seed, freshly ground black pepper and salt.

Use a food processor or potato masher to make a coarse, spreadable mixture. Season to taste with salt, black pepper, and more chiles. I added Justin’s smoked jalapeno sauce.

Marinated Roast Squash

Ingredients: 2 lbs winter squash, 2 cloves garlic, extra virgin olive oil, white wine vinegar, kosher or sea salt, 1/2 tsp crushed fennel seed, chopped fresh herbs (oregano, thyme, mint, or parsley), thinly sliced red onion

Heat an outdoor grill or ridged stovetop grill over high heat, or heat the oven to 425 degrees F. Peel and slice the squash 1/4-inch thick for grilling or 1/2-inch thick for oven roasting. Toss the slices with 2 Tbs olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and grill about 4 minutes per side, until marked with dark grill marks and tender inside. Roast thicker slices on a baking sheet, 10 to 15 minutes per side.

Arrange the cooked squash on a platter with thinly sliced red onion. Mash the garlic with a pinch coarse salt to make a paste. Add the fennel seed and whisk together with 2 Tbs white wine vinegar and 4 Tbs extra virgin olive oil. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the warm squash and sprinkle with finely chopped fresh herbs.

Slow-Sauté of Squash with Greens

The sweet flavor of winter squash combines well with the sharpness of kale, chard or spinach. This sauté makes a great filling for tacos or wraps, or a topping for pasta, pilaf, or polenta.

Ingredients: 1 1/2 lbs. winter squash (4 1/2 to 5 cups, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch dice), 1 medium onion (2/3 to 1 cup thinly sliced), 1 large garlic clove, 1/2 small hot chile (1/4 tsp. red pepper flakes), 2 Tbs olive oil, salt and black pepper, 1 bunch kale, chard or spinach.

Peel, seed, and cut the squash into 1/2-inch cubes. Thinly slice the onion and garlic. Mince the chile. Wash the greens, trim the stems and tough midribs, and cut the leaves into thin strips.

Warm 2 Tbs olive oil in a large skillet or sauté pan over medium heat. Stir in the onion and cook 3 or 4 minutes to soften. Stir in the garlic and chile. Add the squash cubes and stir to coat well with oil. Increase the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, 4 or 5 minutes. When the squash has begun to soften, add the greens and stir to combine. Sprinkle on 1/2 tsp kosher or sea salt and about 2 Tbs water. Reduce the heat to medium, cover the pan, and cook until the vegetables are tender, 4 or 5 minutes.

Variation: Start the sauté by cooking 1 link Italian sausage (removed from the casing), diced pancetta, or bacon in 1 Tbs olive oil. Brown the meat 3 to 5 minutes over medium heat before continuing with the recipe.

Roasted Squash and Red Onion with Pomegranate

Toasty brown squash slices are delicious on their own and even more so tossed with the bright flavors of fresh herbs and crunchy sweet-sour pomegranate seeds. Pair this with wild rice pilaf, a roast chicken, or pita bread and yogurt sauce.

Ingredients: 1 winter squash (about 2 to 2 1/2 lbs.), 2 red onions, 1 /2 pomegranate, 3 Tbs olive oil, 2 or 3 Tbs chopped parsley, mint, oregano, or cilantro

Heat the oven to 425 degrees F. Cut the squash in half, scoop out the seeds, and peel. Cut into 3/4-inch cubes or wedges. Cut the onions into 1-inch wedges. Toss the vegetables with olive oil and 1 tsp kosher salt and place on baking sheets in a single layer, keeping the squash and onions separate. Roast 30 to 40 minutes, turning them after 20 minutes, until they are nicely browned and tender inside. Remove from the oven, toss together, and garnish with pomegranate seeds (or toasted nuts), and chopped herbs.

Extra delicious: Serve with orange-mint gremolata. Chop together 3 Tbs flat-leaf parsley, 3 Tbs fresh mint, 2 tsp orange zest, 1 garlic clove, and a pinch sea salt…Or, drizzle with Corpus Christy Chiles made with plenty of lime juice.

Kabocha Squash Kimpira

This dish involves a  Japanese cooking method that is a combination of searing and braising–very useful for dense vegetables like winter squash, carrot, parsnip, burdock, sweet potato, and turnip. Cut vegetables are seared in a little hot oil before cooking in a covered pot until tender and infused with the flavors of the braising liquid.

Ingredients: 1 1/2 lbs. winter squash (about 5 cups cut into 1/2 x 2-inch wedges), 2 or 3 shallots, 2 1/2 Tbs oil, 1 small dry red pepper, 1 Tbs minced ginger, 2 Tbs soy sauce, 1 Tbs mirin, 3 Tbs rice wine (sake), 2 Tbs toasted sesame seeds

Cut the winter squash in quarters, remove the seeds, and peel. Cut the squash into 1/2 x 1 13/4-inch slices. Cut the shallots in wedges. Heat the oil with the crumbled red pepper and ginger in a large skillet or sauté pan with a tightly fitting lid over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the squash and shallots and toss to coat with oil. Cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the squash begins to brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Add soy sauce, mirin, and sake; toss to combine. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the pot and simmer until the squash is just tender and all the liquid is absorbed, 5 or 6 minutes. Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with toasted sesame seeds.

Winter Squash Soup, with many Variations

Roasting is the easiest way to deal with a whole winter squash, especially warty and ridged varieties. Heat the oven to 400 degrees F, put the whole squash on a baking sheet, stick it in the oven, and wait about one hour or so. When it is soft, cut it in half, scoop out the seeds, and serve it with any kind of seasonings you like. Or, cut the squash in half, scoop out the seeds, and bake the halves face down (or face up, sprinkled with fresh herbs and spices and covered with foil) on a lightly oiled baking sheet. Roasted squash is ready to be turned into any number of delicious soups. If you decide to go with a half squash or start the soup with peeled chunks, the seeds and clean skins can be used to make a vegetable broth to use in these soups.

Broth: Use the seeds and skins from 1 or 2 squashes, 1 carrot, 1 parsnip or celery stalk, 1 small onion, 2 or 3 garlic cloves, 3 sprigs fresh thyme, and 2 sprigs parsley. Cut all the vegetables in half and put everything in a pot with water to cover (about 7 or 8 cups). Simmer about 45 minutes. Strain before using or freezing.

 Roasted Winter Squash Soup with Caramelized Onion

We were served this winter squash soup for breakfast in Japan, accompanied by a hotdog and fresh sea snails. Made with roasted red kuri or other richly flavored orange-fleshed squash, the soup is mellow and beautiful.

Ingredients: 2 1/2 to 3 lb. flavorful winter squash, 2 large white or yellow onions, 1 Tbs vegetable oil, 2 Tbs butter, 1/2 to 1 cup light cream or whole milk (preferably organic), vegetable broth, salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oven to 400 degrees F. Roast the squash for about one hour, until the skin is wrinkled and the flesh is soft. Peel off the skin and remove the seeds. Add any juices from the pan back into the cooked squash.

While the squash bakes, cut the onions in half and slice them very thinly. Warm the oil and butter in a large skillet or sauté pan over medium heat and stir in the onions. Reduce the heat to low and cook the onions, stirring occasionally, until very soft and caramelized to a beautiful golden brown.

Using a blender or food processor, puree the cooked squash and onions together until smooth. Add cream, milk, and/or vegetable broth to make the soup as thin or thick as you like. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.

Variations:

*Roasted Squash with Indian Spices: Add 1 Tbs garam masala or other curry powder to the soup and simmer 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Heat 1 1/2 Tbs peanut or sesame oil in a small skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add 2 tsp black mustard seed and 2 tsp cumin seeds and cook 10 to 20 seconds, until aromatic. Pour into the soup right before serving. Garnish with chopped cilantro. Serve with Indian pickle and yogurt sauce (1 cup thick whole milk yogurt mixed with 1/4 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp ground cumin, 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper, 1/4 tsp cayenne, and 1/4 tsp turmeric).

*To give the soup a slightly different flavor profile, substitute 1/2 tsp 5-spice, 1/4 tsp cinnamon, and 1/8 tsp cardamom for the curry powder. Just before serving, stir in 4 Tbs fresh orange juice and 1 Tbs fresh lime juice.

*Thai Coconut Curry Soup: Heat 1 cup coconut milk in a saucepan. Whisk in 2 tsp minced ginger and 1 or 2 tsp Thai red curry paste. Cook 3 to 4 minutes. Combine with the squash-onion puree. Stir in 1 or 2 tsp fresh lemon or lime juice. Garnish with chopped mint or cilantro and thinly sliced green onion. Sprinkle with chopped roasted peanuts.

*Squash and White Bean Soup with Sage: Use vegetable broth or liquid from cooking beans instead of milk or cream to thin the squash puree or to simmer the squash chunks with sautéed onion.

Warm 2 Tbs olive oil and 1 Tbs butter in a skillet over medium low heat. Add 12 fresh sage leaves and cook, turning often, until they are crisp. Set the leaves aside on a paper towel to cool. Add 1 Tbs finely chopped garlic, 1 minced red chile (dry or fresh), 4 thinly sliced fresh sage leaves, and 2 tsp fresh thyme leaves to the pan. Cook about 30 seconds. Add 1 1/2 to 2 cups cooked white beans (canned are fine) and some of their cooking liquid to the pan and simmer 5 minutes. Add the beans to the Squash puree and simmer over very low heat to let the flavors blend, 5 to 10 minutes.

Crumble the sage leaves over the soup before serving. Serve with freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Orange-mint gremolata, or simply a little orange zest is a good addition.